Shrine of Hazrat Shah Jalal

In the north of the city, off Airport Rd, lies the region's holiest place, the Shrine of Hazrat Shah Jalal. The 14th-century Sufi saint Shah Jalal is buried here, and this is a major pilgrimage place for Bangladeshi Muslims. Shah Jalal's sword and robes are preserved within the large new mosque, but they are not on display. The tomb itself is covered with rich brocade, and at night the space around the tomb is illuminated with candles - it is quite magical. There is a small cemetery at the rear of the tomb chamber; being buried in close proximity to the saint is considered a great honour. It is not entirely clear whether non-Muslims can always visit the shrine; outside of holy days it is usually possible if you are suitably dressed, but the final decision lies with the shrine guardians. Of course if you are invited to see the tomb, behave with appropriate solemnity.

The pond in front of the shrine complex is filled with huge sacred catfish that are fed by the pilgrims and are, according to legend, the metamorphosised black magicians of the Hindu raja Gour Govinda, who was defeated by Shah Jalal in 1303. There is also a tiny tank around the back with ordinary goldfish that are also apparently considered sacred.

Nearby, on a hillock named Rama Raja's Tilla, where the ruins of Gour Govinda's palace were once visible, you can get some partially blocked views of the city. Legend has it that a Hindu temple that once stood here was destroyed by an earthquake instigated by Shah Jalal.